Pattern Support

Jen (another Jen) and Linda L, hoping this post will reach you as I know you have tried to reach me for pattern support. As your Blogger profiles are not shared I am unable to respond to you directly (your emails came through as noreply). Please please please email me at jenATrainydayknitsDOTcom as I would very much like to answer your questions and provide assistance with the pattern you are working on. Cheers! j

The Provisional Crochet Cast On

I often use a provisional cast on in my knitting. Two of my patterns, the Stained Glass Bubble Hat & Scarf and the SGB Socks begin with provisional cast ons.

By provisional I mean a cast on that is not permanent--it can be pulled out leaving live stitches which can be worked in the other direction. This comes in handy in all sorts of situations:

• Not sure what sort of hem or edge you want to do? Ribbing? Corrugated ribbing? Garter stitch hem? Provisionally cast on (PCO) and start knitting. When you're ready, go back and finish off the hem.
• For a lace scarf or table runner, PCO at the middle and knit each side out so both ends match.
• For a sock knit top down, skip the ribbing; PCO for the leg, knit down, then go back and knit the hem bottom up and finish with a tubular CO or Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off.
• For a sweater knit bottom up, PCO in the middle of the body (or sleeve). Later, go back and knit down to wanted length. No more too-short sweater bodies or sleeves! (Credit for this gem of information goes to master knitter Amy Detjen. I still remember the day she mentioned it: a light bulb went off for me.)

There are multiple ways of creating a provisional cast on.** I find that the easiest to pull out later is the provisional crochet cast on (PCCO). The PCCO is essentially a series of crochet chains executed with a needle in the way. With a needle in the way, each chain leaves a loop on the needle. By casting on by PCCO the number of stitches desired, you are left with stitches on the needle which can be knitted into as usual. And, as a crocheted chain will unravel freely, the crocheted chain will unravel freely from the stitches created, leaving complimentary stitches (the bottom of the first row/round of stitches) that can be worked in the other direction.

Here's how I learned to do a PCCO:
1. Use a waste yarn of similar weight but contrasting in color to the yarn you will be knitting.

2. Leaving a short tail, with the waste yarn create a slip knot and slide the knot onto a crochet hook.

3. Hold the crochet hook in your right hand with hook pointing away from you. Hold the waste yarn in your left hand. (Reverse positions if left-handed.)

4. Place a needle on top of the waste yarn, parallel to and left of the crochet hook; this is the starting position:


5. *Reach the crochet hook over on top of the dpn, grab the waste yarn (swiping down/toward you), and pull it through the loop on the hook:


6. Return the needle and crochet hook to their starting positions*:


7. Repeat steps 5 & 6 until you have created the number of stitches you need on the needle.

8. Note the open stitches created along the bottom of the needle:

Aside: These open stiches are created when swiping down/toward you for each chain. In every book or place I've seen how to do a PCCO, it's always stressed to make sure these stitches along the bottom of the needle are open. In one of my classes recently a student naturally swiped up/away from her for each chain, which left twisted stitches along the bottom of the needle. We experimented and found that chains/stitches created that way still pulled apart freely from the knitting, although when undoing the CO, it was noticeable that each PCCO stitch was twisted. Whichever way you swing, I'd just recommend being consistent.

9. To end, chain several loops off the dpn and then pull the waste yarn tail through the final chain. These loops serve an important purpose: they will help you remember which end to pull on when you go to pull out the waste yarn.

When you are ready to remove the PCCO, starting at the end with extra loops, slowly and carefully remove the PCCO, placing the live stitches onto a needle as you go. I like to go stitch by stitch.

A few tips when using the PCCO:

• use a waste yarn of a color in stark contrast to your main yarn (and of similar weight)
  
• cast on extra stitches and then, upon counting, drop off what isn't needed
• always knit the first row or round in plain knitting (no fancy colorwork yet)
• when removing a PCCO, remove it stitch by stitch, placing each live stitch onto a needle as you go (as opposed to going WHEE! and ripping it out willy-nilly)
• if you find the stitches tight when removing the waste yarn, PCCO onto a needle size or two larger than that with which you will be knitting (or, if you've already begun knitting, place the live stitches onto a temporary needle of smaller size until you are ready to work the stitches)
• if knitting flat, there will be one less provisional stitch than main stitches; if knitting in the round, this is not an issue: there will be one provisional stitch per main stitch. If you are a stitch short, just M1.

And, here's a bonus: a PCCO need not be removed: if it is worked in the main color, it can be kept as a permanent edge as it mirrors nicely a conventional cast off (k1, *k1, pass the rightmost stitch over the leftmost and off the needle*, pull yarn through last stitch to secure it). This would work great for a scarf or table runner knit the long way (not from the middle), as both edges will match.

For more information, Lucy Neatby has a good description of the PCCO in her wonderfully technical book Cool Socks, Warm Feet (2003), Tradewind Knitwear Designs, Inc. She also has a good video demo on YouTube.

**Another provisional cast on is the invisible cast on, which I like to call twisty-wrap. It is set up as a long-tail cast on with the waste yarn held in front and the working yarn held in back. There are good descriptions & diagrams of it in Meg Swansen's & Elizabeth Zimmermann's books, including Meg Swansen's Knitting (1999), Interweave Press. This book of Meg's has a wonderful technique section. This method is also commonly printed in the glossary of "Interweave Knits."

Edited 1.29.10.

I give you, Boober Fraggle:

Actually, I gave him to my sister for her birthday. She was two when Jim Henson's much-loved 80's show debuted on her birthday.

He was fun to make. Wembley's my favorite, so he may be making a showing later this year.

As Boober likes to do laundry, I thought it fitting to stuff him with (clean) old socks.

Lyrics to the Doozer knitting song.

Finished over winter break:
This is my vest version of Amber Allison's Fireside Sweater. I love how the center cable comes together at the back:

The only mods I can remember at the moment were to carry the cables up the armholes. I also left the ends of the center/neck cable live and grafted them together following Lucy Neatby's method for grafting after knitting on a waste piece. While extra work, the method was flawless and made for easy grafting by being able to see exactly where the grafting yarn should flow. Oh--and I did a four-stitch applied i-cord around the armhole and center openings. Oh--and instead of buttonholes (only because I forgot to do them) I crocheted on four loops to attach to the buttons. I guess those are more than a few mods! But overall the pattern was great--the cables were easy to fall into a rhythm with, and the pattern was clearly written. The only thing I would change would be to do something more interesting within the wide swatches of garter stitch on the larger sizes--maybe another cable that weaves its way in and out. And if knit again, I'd add 1-2” in length.

The yarn is Plymouth Yarn Homestead in a color I'd call mushroom (#102). Knit on 10's, this went super-fast. The yarn seems to be holding up well after a few wearings. It’s soft but a little scratchy at the same time–if that’s possible. Worn with a scarf or turtleneck underneath, it's fine.

Just saw that Pigeonroof Studios is offering free shipping for the month of January. I couldn't resist picking up a skein of the superwash merino original sock in the colorway "green ocean" at Sock Summit--the colors are luscious and well-varied. It's now becoming a pair of gloves.

Happy new year!

Friends New & Old

Fran at Clover Needlecraft emailed me recently regarding my Stained Glass Bubble Scarf pattern. She generously mentions the scarf on Clover's Blog, here. Thanks, Fran! She also says that Clover's 9" circular works well for the scarf. I haven't worked with 9" circs before, but am excited to give that size a try.

Winter has arrived in the Pacific NW. A cold wind is whipping around the house, finding a few ways in. But I prefer the recent cold and dry to mild and wet, particularly when it comes to dog walks.

Currently my knitting time is focused on a pattern submission for Knitty's Spring+Summer issue. If I can get the chart & written section nearly finished today, that leaves odds & ends & photos through next Sunday. Then holiday shopping. Hmmm... back to work.

For now I leave you with another reason why I love Portland: SoupCycle. And a photo taken by my friend Betsy on her recent cross-country drive from Oregon to New England. Sarah and I gave Betsy the little ram (found at OFFF) and for fun Betsy took pictures of Ramsey B. Woolley pondering the scenery along the journey. Here he is in Montana taking in the Bighorn Mountains (and, in Betsy's words, feeling slightly inadequate):

Stained Glass Bubble Socks

It's finally official. Meet the cousin of the Stained Glass Bubble Hat & Scarf:


These colorful socks are worked toe up with short-row garter-stitch heels and toes. Bubbles ripple across the top of the foot and encircle the leg; the foot sole is a comfortable stockinette fabric. An example of dropped-stitch mosaic knitting, this pattern combines the look of two-color knitting with the ease and speed of only ever knitting one color per round. And, of the six rounds of pattern for one row of bubbles, five rounds are plain knitting. You’ll have a pair of bubble socks in no time!


The pattern is eight pages and includes instructions for sizes child through adult. The stitch patterns for the foot and leg are written out (there are no charts; the bubble pattern, once learned, is quite simple; charts really aren't necessary).


Yarns used are Zitron Trekking XXL and Louet Gems Super Fine fingering weight, 1 skein of each, both 14 wpi. Another variegated yarn could be used in place of the Trekking, although it may not give the same finished look. Or pick your two favorite colors and go solid!

Gauge: 36 stitches and 52 rows = 4 inches in st st & bubble stitch

Suggested needles: US 1.5 (2.5mm) & US 0 (2.0mm)

Sizes: Child S[Child M, Child L/Adult S, Adult M, Adult L]

At the above gauge,
~ Foot width: 2.75[3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.75]
~ Corresponds to U.S. shoe sizes Child 4-8[Child 7-11, Child 10-2, Child 2-6/Woman’s 2-6/Man’s 6-8, Woman’s 7-9/Man’s 8.5-10] according to www.yarnstandards.com
~ Foot length & leg height are easily adjustable.


The pattern sells for $6 US. If you are in Portland, Oregon you can pick up a paper version at either Close Knit on NE Alberta or at Twisted on NE Broadway. Or, from the comfort of your own home, you can purchase the pdf either through Ravelry (search for "Stained Glass Bubble" or see my profile under sunnydayknitter) or here:

(Note: clicking the button above will take you to Ravelry's Paypal site. Ravelry will delivery the pdf to your email address. If you have any problems, please let me know! And I'd love to see photos of any Stained Glass Bubble socks, in progress or finished--please share!)

Webs

Spotted while walking to the dog park this morning.

This is an amazing article about a tapestry made completely out of spider silk. Beautiful.